Testaccio: the popular soul of Rome

Testaccio, a neighborhood that embodies the very essence of Rome, stands as a bastion of tradition and popular culture. Located in the heart of the city, this lively enclave offers an authentic glimpse into the daily lives of Romans, away from the beaten tourist track.

A mosaic of stories and flavours
Walking through the cobbled streets of Testaccio, you are immersed in a kaleidoscope of scents and sounds that tell the story of this community. From the artisan workshops that pass on ancient crafts to the trattorias that offer authentic Roman cuisine, every corner is an ode to authenticity.

“Testaccio is the soul of Rome,” says Giulia, a longtime resident. “There’s a unique atmosphere here, made up of deep-rooted traditions and a sense of belonging that goes beyond the neighborhood’s borders.”

Testaccio is a dynamic, trendy neighborhood that develops around Monte dei Cocci, a hill created from the accumulation of discarded Roman amphorae. The caves, once used as warehouses, are home to busy bars and nightclubs, as well as both traditional and innovative trattorias. Many menus feature offal specialties, a clear nod to the area's former slaughterhouse that now houses the MACRO modern art museum. The lively local market sells fresh produce and street food.

Testaccio: mini itinerary and what not to miss
A whole day will be enough to visit and experience the neighborhood in all its essence. Starting from Piazza Testaccio, head towards Via Galvani. The first recommended stop to get in touch with the roots of the place is Monte Testaccio , also nicknamed Monte dei Cocci and visitable by reservation. The very interesting walk runs along the mountain generated, since Roman times, by the accumulation of the so-called "testae", or amphorae, symbol of Testaccio, which once emptied of their contents at the nearby Porto Fluviale (in the Ostiense area) were deposited right there, no longer able to be reused. Hence the name, precisely, of Testaccio and the recurring symbolism that you will find almost everywhere in the area. Another unmissable stop is the Mattatoio , today a large cultural space managed by the Azienda Speciale Palaexpo. It is fascinating to walk among the buildings that compose it, where the modern industrial style mixes with the history and the working-class origins of the neighborhood, and to observe the refurbished beams, which were once used to transport animals. Here there are often temporary exhibitions and modern installations by artists that give the place a fresher and younger air. An ideal place to take a walk.

In the morning, right in front of the Mattatoio, pop into the Nuovo Mercato Testaccio . Walk among the colorful and tidy fruit, bread, meat and fish stalls, and take a look at the food kiosks, each more carefully curated than the last. Since the palate also wants its part, perhaps stop to try a sandwich with tripe or boiled meat. Or, if you prefer, opt for a fresh centrifuged juice and a slice of pizza. The beauty of this market, historic in the neighborhood even in its new location, lies precisely in combining tradition and innovation. I recommend, between one stall and another, take a look at the ancient walls, visible under your feet in some points of the market.

The last stop on the mini itinerary is the Non-Catholic Cemetery . After the market, to find it, just continue along Via Zabaglia and then turn left onto Via Caio Cestio. Immerse yourself in the calm of this place just a stone's throw from the Pyramid of Cestius and walk among its monumental tombs. You will find those of illustrious figures but also of artists and poets such as John Keats , Percy Bysshe Shelley , Gramsci and, finally, Andrea Camilleri . Here, immersed in greenery and silence, you can visit alone or with guides.

After these stops, the advice is to walk through the streets of the neighborhood to fully grasp its soul. Observe its buildings from the early twentieth century and, if you can, sneak into some of its courtyards. Some, very well-kept and maintained, are an open-air museum, among amphorae and ancient buildings such as the Casa dei Bambini.

Testaccio and its cuisine
Your tour of “pe' Testaccio” cannot end without lunch or dinner in one of its historic venues. If during the day the area is the kingdom of its original inhabitants, in the evening it changes skin, becoming one of the nerve centers of Roman nightlife. You can choose between taverns and restaurants that, in a more or less renewed guise, between cacio e pepe , carbonara , pajata and amatriciana , try to grab the title of best Roman trattoria. And if by chance you want something less traditional, here you are: sushi, oriental restaurants, bistros, gourmet fish restaurants or pizzerias, until you finish with a drink... Testaccio is simply all of this.

A Bright Future for the Soul of Rome
As the world continues to evolve, Testaccio remains firmly anchored to its traditions, offering a haven of authenticity in an age of constant change. This neighborhood is a living testament to the importance of preserving one’s cultural roots, ensuring that the soul of Rome continues to shine for generations to come.